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  1. #1
    TheUndectableBlur Guest

    Default Mini Wood Burners

    So R&B and I have been tossing around the idea of a mini wood burner. I'm thinking a 16"L X 14"H X 14"W and 3" legs with a 4" exhaust pipe will secure our needs of heat in the tiny camper we have. 1/4 inch plate all around. This will also serve as a great cast iron pan platform for eggs and bacon in the morning. Give me some idea's on what ya'll think and give me some direction if you got a good idea.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUndectableBlur View Post
    So R&B and I have been tossing around the idea of a mini wood burner. I'm thinking a 16"L X 14"H X 14"W and 3" legs with a 4" exhaust pipe will secure our needs of heat in the tiny camper we have. 1/4 inch plate all around. This will also serve as a great cast iron pan platform for eggs and bacon in the morning. Give me some idea's on what ya'll think and give me some direction if you got a good idea.

    sounds like a good idea. i would do your research to make sure its safe.
    YJ (sold it and haven't looked back)
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    it sounds good but i would have a little of this in between the steel and maybe around the floor? http://www.worbo.com/molten_splash.php

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    a little pricey but whats your life worth?

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    I can answer most questions you have I just build one about a month ago. If done correctly with a baffle plate and secondary intake/burn chamber It will heat a small house. I had this one choked off during the night and it was still hot in the tent.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U6VC9Z-18pc




    KTMs and Yamahas

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    Be EXTREMELY careful with a woodburner in a camper.They are literally a tinder box.how about a small propane heater,that you would be able to turn off instantly if a fire got started???

    SAFETY RULE #1 ---Don't get killed.
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    We're planning on gutting our camper so there will be virtually nothing to catch aflame. Any sized woodburner in the camper is really overkill, it will probably bee 125 degrees in there, expecially considering how small our camper is!

    The plan is to make a small one, ensure that the chimney is appropriately channeled through the roof (my house uses a triple wall pipe which are expensive, we'll devise something similar and cheap), and encase the general area for the wood burner with sheet metal. ......which will likely all get stolen.

    I suggested the mini propane heater, but mr. blur wouldn't have it. I would be a bit concerned about the fumes anyway. Plus, I don't wanna have to fill a propane tank every time we go up there (in the winter months).

    A miniature wood burner can and will be done safely and efficiently. Some experimenting will likely have to take place but ideally, we can grab a hand full of sticks and stay warm all through the winter between rides and at night.

    The only main issue I see it that scrappers will want to take all the metal, even though total scrap value will be about $4.27. I though about leaving them a pile of copper instead! We'll likely make it portable so that we can quickly install it each time we arrive and remove it when we leave.

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    Make it long and skinny as opposed to short and fat. You can control the rate of burn better and will get a longer "end to end" burn with that design. The jotul 118 is the classic "cigar burn" design with a top baffle plate and rear exhaust. a bigger (longer) log will allow a longer burn time between refueling. I was gettign about 6 hours from mine before needing to add another log. less than that will get annoying having to wake up at night to throw another log on.


    Jotul:


    I built mine with the same basic design, but added a damper/bypass in the rear of the baffle plate for starting the fire and heat control. With the damper open the heat/smoke has a direct shot up the stack and pulls a better draft. Closed off it has to flow toward the door and around the baffle opening and between the stove top and plate. This heats the entire top of the stove rather letting all the heat escape.




    This is a awesome resource for stove design and construction http://autonopedia.org/crafts_and_te...ves_Part2.html I based my stove off some of these design principals
    KTMs and Yamahas

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    Wow there's alot of good info there! Thank you!

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    I use an infared propane heater in my enclosed trail. There are no fumes. I keep 1 lower and 1 upper air vent cracked open so it doesn't burn up all the oxygen, but my heater does have a low oxygen safety shut off on it and a thermostat. One 20lb propane bottle will last me all weekend with temps in the 20's, and I leave it run the whole time I'm there. You can buy the infared heaters that screw right to the tank really cheap, just have to remember to have something opened a little for ventilation. It's cheap, great instant heat, and no hassle at all except for a refill or exchange.
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    Dirty, you talking about something like this?




    I told blur that this would be a smiple heating option, but no no no

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    If you want propane convenience w/o the humidity/CO concerns you can look at the Nu-way line. They start at 12,000 btu @ $135.

    http://www.nuwaystove.com/about.php
    KTMs and Yamahas

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    Quote Originally Posted by Red&Black View Post
    Dirty, you talking about something like this?
    Yep, that will work. But again, you MUST have ventilation because they will burn up the oxygen. If your camper isn't air tight, you'll have no problem. This is what I have;


    http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...rch=19852-2301

    I like it because of the thermostat and oxygen depletion sensor.
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  20. #14
    TheUndectableBlur Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by jshome View Post
    it sounds good but i would have a little of this in between the steel and maybe around the floor? http://www.worbo.com/molten_splash.php
    Yes....we were planing on doing this

  21. #15
    TheUndectableBlur Guest

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    Quote Originally Posted by buggytrash1 View Post
    Be EXTREMELY careful with a woodburner in a camper.They are literally a tinder box.how about a small propane heater,that you would be able to turn off instantly if a fire got started???

    SAFETY RULE #1 ---Don't get killed.

    No propane....period

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    PLEASE --get a fire extinguisher!You guys are smart kids ,play it safe.if you can't afford one -I'll give you one .
    DON'T BE STUPID

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    Look on amazon and ebay for tent stove. They are around $100. Or build an ammo can tent stove. Look them up on youtube. They are pretty cool. Im building one out of 20 gauge steel from cutouts from hollow metal doors. I have the main box built and the door just gotta get hinges and make the exhaust. The box is 12hx12wx18l. I dont now if ill leave it but it is so light can take it if i want. As of right now the only money i have in it is the cost of the welding wire
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    Jared how did you attach your flue? Did you make a flange or just stick it in the box. And what did you use for the flue? I wanted to use the duravent stuff but its to expensive so ill probably just use 3" galvanized and burn off the galvanized before installing it. Did you use a dampener? And thanks for the pics now i can make my hinges.
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    Quote Originally Posted by neightfrog View Post
    Jared how did you attach your flue? Did you make a flange or just stick it in the box. And what did you use for the flue? I wanted to use the duravent stuff but its to expensive so ill probably just use 3" galvanized and burn off the galvanized before installing it. Did you use a dampener? And thanks for the pics now i can make my hinges.
    I rolled a flange from some scrap i had laying around



    damper closed:


    open


    baffle plate and damper control:


    cam and lock



    The flue is just cheap galvanized 26 gauge 4". Even running wide open (door open max draft) glowing dull red sides. I never melted the bar code stickers off the pipe. The baffle makes it that efficient.
    KTMs and Yamahas

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    Damn knew i shoulda put a baffle in mine. Nice work. Does your flue fit tight on the flange? Where did you get the fiberglass rope? And how did you mount it to the door? I wish this would have been posted a month ago when i started mine. Kinda confused on how your dampener control works?
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    Kerosene convection heater seems safer and easier than wood. As a general rule of thumb with any unvented heater is to have 1 square foot of ventilation for every hundred thousand BTU's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by neightfrog View Post
    Damn knew i shoulda put a baffle in mine. Nice work. Does your flue fit tight on the flange? Where did you get the fiberglass rope? And how did you mount it to the door? I wish this would have been posted a month ago when i started mine. Kinda confused on how your dampener control works?
    Yes it's tight around the flange. Fiberglass rope was from lowes in the fireplace/wood-burner section. It's a friction fit into 3/8 square tubing I cut in half lengthwise.

    The damper pivots on a shaft just outside of the view. The control rod is mounted to a shaft on the damper plate. pushing forward rotates it closed, pulling back rotates it out of the corner and leaves it open.
    KTMs and Yamahas

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    Lots of great ideas and info! Thanks guys!

    Here the blur and I though we would be the only ones with a wood burner in our camper - but apparently we are seriously loosing this race.

    Whatever we end up with, it needs to be very very small. The fuel will likely be sticks and twigs only!

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    You will be disappointed with the heat output / burn length (time) of sticks and twigs unless you are just trying to warm up.
    KTMs and Yamahas

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jared View Post
    You will be disappointed with the heat output / burn length (time) of sticks and twigs unless you are just trying to warm up.
    How big is your burner?
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    Quote Originally Posted by neightfrog View Post
    How big is your burner?
    Roughly 11.5 x 11.5 x 23.5.
    KTMs and Yamahas

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    In my house, we use the typical 6" single wall chimney pipe. Do you guys know if they make 4" or smaller?

    We will likely only need a 3 or 4-in chimney with two (2) 90-degree bends. I want to put it through the wall rather than through the roof due to water leakage issues.

    What sort of pipe do you recommend? I can fab a cap to keep the water out.


    EDIT: Jared, in those burner pictures you have inside of the big military tent, are you using dryer vent/ductwork as chimney pipe? Can it withstand the heat?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Red&Black View Post
    In my house, we use the typical 6" single wall chimney pipe. Do you guys know if they make 4" or smaller?

    We will likely only need a 3 or 4-in chimney with two (2) 90-degree bends. I want to put it through the wall rather than through the roof due to water leakage issues.

    What sort of pipe do you recommend? I can fab a cap to keep the water out.


    EDIT: Jared, in those burner pictures you have inside of the big military tent, are you using dryer vent/ductwork as chimney pipe? Can it withstand the heat?
    It's galvanized 4" duct (26 gauge). Yes if the design is right it does not get that hot.
    KTMs and Yamahas

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    Quote Originally Posted by Red&Black View Post
    In my house, we use the typical 6" single wall chimney pipe. Do you guys know if they make 4" or smaller?

    We will likely only need a 3 or 4-in chimney with two (2) 90-degree bends. I want to put it through the wall rather than through the roof due to water leakage issues.

    What sort of pipe do you recommend? I can fab a cap to keep the water out.


    EDIT: Jared, in those burner pictures you have inside of the big military tent, are you using dryer vent/ductwork as chimney pipe? Can it withstand the heat?
    Duravent makes 3in stainless but its about $20 a foot. Galvanized is ok if it doesnt get hot. If it does get hot enough to burn the galvanised off make sure you do it outside because it produces toxic fumes. Whatever you build just make sure to test it outside before you actually
    install it.
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    Here is what i got so farClick image for larger version. 

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Views:	92 
Size:	1.64 MB 
ID:	2862
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